Aged Permanent Eyebrows – Battling the Dreaded “Pigment Fade”

It is not uncommon for clients who have had permanent eyebrow tattoos or microblading performed by other artists to come to me seeking a correction – not just for misshapen brows and color correction – but also for unnatural-looking aged color. As with all permanent makeup, ink color does fade a bit over time, requiring an occasional touch-up. But for some, when their color fades, they notice their brows have turned an unnatural shade – often red, orange, pink, or greyish-blue. These color changes that occur when the tattoo begins to fade can happen for various reasons, but generally, it results from an inexperienced professional performing the procedure. So, it is always critical that before any procedure, you ensure your artist is a Certified Permanent Cosmetic professional with a track record for excellent results. The most common causes typically stem from the depth at which the pigment is implanted, the type of pigment used, poor color matching for the client’s skin tone, and the use of skin-damaging tools. Let’s dig a little deeper …

• Depth of Pigment:
  Ink not deposited at the correct depth beneath the skin often results in fading to unnatural-looking colors. If the ink is deposited too shallowly, it will lack saturation, turning the brow into a lighter orange or pink color as it fades. If the ink is deposited too deeply, it can cause damage to the skin resulting in scarring, which can cause the color to become ashy, often a greyish-blue.

• Pigment Type:
  The ink brands used in permanent makeup pigments vary by quality and formula. Some pigment brands are less stable or lack reliable formula consistency. These factors can determine how the ink will fade over time. Only ink made explicitly for permanent cosmetics should be used; inks made for body tattooing are not appropriate for permanent makeup.

• Skintone:
  Each client’s skin tone must be considered when the artist selects the ink color to provide the best results. A knowledgeable artist will refer to the Fitzpatrick scale, a diagnostic tool used to determine a person’s skin tone (such as pale, light, olive, brown, or dark brown). Using the Fitzpatrick scale, the artist can determine which pigment colors are appropriate for each client. The skin’s undertones, such as warm, cool, or neutral, should also be assessed. For example, a client with a warm undertone will tend to pull warm tones from a pigment more than a person with a cool undertone. Therefore, the artist would likely choose a more neutral shade, so selecting the correct pigment color the first time is critical to alleviating fading to an unwanted color.

• Use of Rotatary Machine:
  The type of machine used in permanent cosmetics also plays a significant role in the outcome of any procedure. The use of a rotary machine often leads to tissue damage and scarring. When the skin is scarred, it can produce a keloid, which is a thick scar, and ink will not only fade but becomes extremely difficult to correct because the damaged skin does not hold pigment as well.

So how can faded brows be corrected?
Once brows have faded to an unnatural shade, correcting them is not as simple as applying a new color over the existing brow. Each person’s situation is unique and will require an initial evaluation to determine the best course of action to fix the issue. Generally, a pigment corrector is used to neutralize the tone and restore brows, or tattoo removal is recommended if the existing pigment in the skin is heavily saturated. Following either of these procedures, new brows can then be created. Whether you need tattoo removal, lightening, or pigment correction, Fabulously Flawless can help restore your brows and make you feel beautiful again.