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women with dark skin

What You Need To Know About Permanent Makeup & Darker Skin Tones

14.02.2017 Eyebrows, Eyeliner, Lips, Micbroblading, Permanent Cosmetics
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Not every permanent makeup professional understands the special considerations that need to be taken when working with clients of various ethnicities and heritage who have darker skin tones. At Fabulously Flawless, we are expertly trained in the art of permanent makeup application for all skin tones. We understand the special qualities of different types of skin and how they may affect the outcome of our client’s permanent cosmetics. It takes an expert and an artist to understand how to work with these subtleties to achieve the perfect look.

 

We often see darker skin clients come to us for corrective procedures because a less experienced technician neglected to take critical steps and precautions to avoid unwanted results. Unfortunately, not all permanent cosmetics procedures can be corrected. This is why it is so important to find a Certified Cosmetics Professional who knows what they are doing.

 

There are distinct differences in the properties of skin tones in women of color. African American skin is 60-70% higher in lipid content than Caucasian skin and has larger sebaceous glands. African American skin is denser, and the oil glands are larger, making it much more prone to lesion formation through follicular impaction. When the skin is injured or diseased, as it is healing, the cells at the bottom layer of the skin do one of two things:

  • Hyperpigmentation — where the skin will produce more melanin, creating darker pigmentation areas.
  • Hypopigmentation —where the skin will produce less pigment, creating white areas.

 

Not all looks are realistically achievable or advisable either. As an example, African American women’s permanent lip color should only be created using a darker color due to the high likelihood of hyperpigmentation occurring. We have encountered clients who have had inexperienced technicians attempt to create a lighter/pink lip color on African American women, which resulted in a purple color due to hyper pigmentation.

 

We also see many African American women whose eyebrows have been microbladed, and the color has migrated causing a blurry looking brow. Because African American women’s skin tends to be oily, we don’t recommend Microblading a is not suitable for women with oily skin.

 

Indian women’s skin is unique too. For example, permanent eyeliner may fade to a lighter shade, even if the darkest black pigment is used to create the liner. Inexperienced technicians do not take educated steps to prevent this from happening or often neglect to inform their Indian clients that this may occur, leaving the client extremely dissatisfied.

 

To avoid these mishaps and unfortunate results we take several steps to ensure we can create your perfect look. We first assess the client’s skin using the Fitzpatrick Scale to determine the best pigment shades for each procedure. The Fitzpatrick Scale of Skin Types is a reflection of how skin responds to the sun. Melanin contributes color to the skin and is located in the basal layer of the epidermis and absorbs light and acts like a blanket over any color in the dermis, including our tattoo pigments. Melanin can be black, brown or blue and you can expect different colors in different skin from the same pigment. Other colors that affect our tattoo pigments are collagen which is gray or white, blood vessels – red or blue- and underlying fat (yellow) and veins lying just below the dermis.

 

Once we have determined what your Fitzpatrick Skin Type is we assess your skin’s overall condition, and discuss with your permanent cosmetics objectives. With this information, we can determine which types of procedures as well as specific pigment colors are suitable for you.

 

When it comes to permanent cosmetics, there is no “one size fits all.” So, make sure you choose a Permanent Cosmetic Professional that is educated in all aspects of skin tones and their unique qualities.

 

Want to see what your skin tone is on the Fitzpatrick Scale? Take the quiz and then check out our the pigments we use and see what options you have for your skin type.

Everything You Need To Know About Microblading – Part 3

27.01.2017 Beauty, Eyebrows, Micbroblading, Permanent Cosmetics, Permanent Makeup
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Many of my clients who come to me for Microblading have lots of questions and even numerous misconceptions about this permanent eyebrow technique. I thought it would be helpful to share with you the most common questions I get along with the answers. I hope you find this information useful if you are considering Microblading.

 

Is it true that Microblading isn’t a “real” tattoo since it doesn’t last as long?

No way! Microblading (or eyebrow embroidery) is, in fact, a form of cosmetic tattooing because the pigment is implanted into the skin manually. It does, however, have the ability to fade away faster than the conventional powder fill or digital hair stroke eyebrow tattoo because there is less pigment implanted into the dermal layer of the skin; therefore IT IS CONSIDERED TO BE PERMANENT.

 

Microblading is all the same no matter who does it, right?

Not by a long shot! The most important consideration that will determine the overall quality of your permanent cosmetic eyebrows is the amount of experience the technician has, the quality of their work, and their artistic abilities. It is crucial that you select only a Certified Permanent Cosmetic Artist, Board Certified by the American Academy of Pigmentation (AAM). Lately, there are some technicians popping up that claim to be “Trained in Europe.” Since there is no way of assuring the reputation of these overseas training schools, it is recommended that you only use a technician that is certified by a reputable US organization. You should also ask the technician what kind of training they received. Was it in a classroom setting or online. Be wary of anyone who received training online! Steer clear of anyone who has not had hands-on training with an instructor present. Just like a doctor, you want someone who has learned by practice and under the watchful eye of another professional. You wouldn’t trust a surgeon who got his/her training online would you?

 

I saw a Groupon for Microblading, is that a good way to try Microblading?

Not so fast Sparky! Price should NOT be your determining factor when choosing an artist. Your decision should be based on the quality of work rather than price. Quality comes down to education, makeup training, and experience of the Certified expert you choose. Also, be sure to review the artist’s before and after photos extensively to assess their natural talent. A qualified artist will have a solid clientele with good references, and will also save you money and potential heartache in the long term. A bad tattoo will cost you hundreds of more dollars, in the long run, to remove and re-do your brows – so take your time and be comfortable with who you choose. Remember, you get what you pay for, and with something as precious and fragile as your face, you don’t want to use a coupon or cut corners. If you can’t afford a quality Certified Permanent Cosmetic Artist, wait to tattoo your eyebrows until you can afford to do so.

 

Is Microblading suitable for me?

Maybe. If you have extremely oily skin, the microblading technique may not work well for you. The constant production of oil will cause the hair strokes to heal with a diffused, softer look. The result will look dramatic and more like a powdered brow instead of hair strokes. Any respectable Microblading artist will consult with you and review your skin type and ask you questions about how your skin heals to determine if Microblading will work for you.

 

How Do I Determine The Best Shape of Brow For Me?

Show your artist photos of brow shapes you like. Then, make sure your artist draws in the brows first so you can see how they will be shaped before she gets started. MAKE SURE THEY TAKE MEASUREMENTS to ensure that both brows are proportionate to one another. Once they are drawn on, make a few expressions and look at the brows from a few different angles. Ask the artist to take a photo or two of you so you can see what they look like from an outsider’s perspective. Evaluate your potential brows as they relate to your face. When you look in the mirror are they flattering to your face? Do you like the way they accompany your expressions? Do they fit your personality? Do they bring out your features and your eyes? Don’t feel rushed to decide, remember the brow shape should be perfect for you and you should love the way they look.

 

I heard I will need to shave off my eyebrows if I want to get Microblading. Is that true? 

ABSOLUTELY NOT! Any technician that tells you to shave off your eyebrows before you can get Microblading should be avoided. The idea of Microblading is that the hair strokes created will match the natural hair on your eyebrows. So if you shave off the brows, the technician has no point of reference as to how they should create your new brows.

 

I heard about something called Ombre Eyebrows. That sounds cool. What is it?

“Ombre eyebrows” is just a name used by some technicians to market something that sounds cool. Because of the popularity of Ombre Hair Color, some permanent makeup technicians decided to use the word “Ombre” to attract clientele. Ombre hair color means the top of the hair from your roots halfway down is darker, and it “fades” into a lighter color. Ombre color may look nice on the top of your head, but it won’t look good on your eyebrows. If you search the web for “Ombre eyebrows” you may see technicians using a lighter shade of pigment at the beginning of the brow closest to the nose and then they use a darker pigment to extend the color to the outer ends of the brow. This technique results in an unnatural looking brow because the transition from the lighter shade of pigment to the darker will look like your brows are thinning, and you have less hair in the lighter areas. This will draw unwanted attention to your brows because they look odd. However, with Microblading your artist may suggest using a few different shades of pigment throughout the brow to create a blended natural look, but this is not considered to be “Ombre.” If a technician suggests an “Ombre brow” and you are unsure what they are talking about asking them what they mean and ask to see photos of what they are describing.

 

What factors will affect My Microblading After My Procedure?

  • Sun exposure: The sun will immensely soften the look of your tattoo, so a physical sunscreen should be used (once healed) to prolong your enhancement.
  • Regeneration of skin cells: The longer the recovery takes, the longer the pigment holds.
  • The speed at which the skin absorbs the pigment: The slower the absorption, the longer the pigment will stay.
  • The choice of pigment color: Some colors may fade quicker than others, e.g. a blonde pigment may fade faster than a dark brunette pigment.
  • Bleeding during the procedure: Any bleeding during the tattooing procedure will reduce the amount of pigment absorption. Caffeine, alcohol and certain medications act as blood thinners and should avoid 48 hours before your appointment.

 

If you have any other questions about Microblading, don’t hesitate to reach out to us and ask. We are here to help!